Travel Post By Indira: Mekele

My African Days - by Indira Palasubramaniam

City view from Hawelti, Mekele

This article may help you to know Mekele in brief, which describes about the city, people, topography, climate and wildlife. Additionally, you also can find some details about transportation, accommodations, restaurants, foods & drinks, places to visit and cautions, if you are planning for a visit.

The city: The Mekele city has some uniqueness compared to other cities in Ethiopia such as cleanness, less populace, pleasant weather, easy access to internet and transport. Importantly, the people are very friendly. Mekele or Mekelle pronounced as ‘Makale’. It’s the capital of Tigray region, which is one of the nine ethnic regions of Ethiopia. Tigray region is located in the northern part of Ethiopia. Mekele is a small city by area, in the region of 28km. New buildings, infrastructure and population are growing rapidly from last five years, but not yet to call as crowded city. There are many educational institutions around the city; the Mekele University gets most of the students even from other parts of Ethiopia. Thus, you can find the statement “Welcome to the Knowledge City” on the city name board at the entrance of Mekele.

The people: The majority of residents are Orthodox Christians followed by Muslims. Tigray region is bordered by Eritrea in the north and the Mekele citizens have more in common with Eritreans, in terms of language (Tigrinya) and customs. A number of people speak English as well. They are very much interested in Music and Dance. Youngsters opt for modern and western dresses than their traditional dresses, which they wear occasionally. Men and Women are equal in the society. There are a number of foreigners residing in the city and working in the private and public sectors, mainly in educational institutions and NGOs; most of them from India, Philippine, Europe and other western countries.

Topography and Climate: Ethiopia is a mountainous country and Mekele is elevated by almost 2,200m above sea level. Thus, it has a moderate climate throughout the year; the temperature can go up between 22◦C and 25◦C during noontimes and often drops to less than 14◦C at nighttimes. The city is surrounded by medium height mountains and the land is not flat. Heavy winds blow in the afternoons, bringing up dust during the dry season. The dry season starts from October and wet season starts from June, but you can find some rain in March as well. Hailstones usually mixed up with the rains. The period of June to September known as the best weather in Mekele, with rains and mild winter. You can find a little more details about the climate on my blog “Cool parts of northern east Africa”.

Wildlife: Mekele is not for wildlife watch, except the midnight hyenas. There is no zoo or open park to watch the wildlife. You may get the chance to see some animals and many birds if you are in a long stay in the city. So far, I have seen around 30 different varieties of lovely birds in my compound in the last 6 months, which I have never seen before. The hyenas enter into the city from nearby jungles to catch farm animals at midnights. Local farmers grow cows, goats, sheep, donkeys, horses, camels, chicken and dogs (dogs to protect their animals from hyenas) in their small house with little land. If you want to see the real wildlife of Ethiopia, you must visit the Simien Mountain, Bale Mountain, Gondar, Bahar Dar, Gambela and Awash National Park.

Transportation: Ethiopian Airlines flies four times a day from Addis Ababa to Mekele, costing around 1,400 Birr for one way (780Km). There are buses between Addis Ababa and Mekele, which may cost 400 Birr. Some buses are very fast, which will reach in one day. And some buses take two days, which includes a night stop with accommodation. Many people prefer the two day bus to have comfortable journey and alternatively enjoy the view of the countryside.

Inside Mekele, shared three wheels (Bajaj) and mini vans are commonly used, in the cost of 1.40 or 2.40 Birr. Bajaj and taxies are available for hiring, but it’s better to know the fare in advance, because many drivers charge more fees from foreigners when you want to hire (or contract, which they call). Bajaj may cost 20 – 30 Birr for single hiring. Horse-carts, donkeys and camels are widely used in goods transportation within the city.

Accommodations: There are three hotels in the city with some standards.

First is Axum Hotel, which is comparable to four stars and also known for good food.
The second is Milano Hotel, a good and old hotel. Many prefer this next to Axum Hotel.
The third is Atse Yohannes Hotel, which is known for good food and city view.
Other than the above three, the Seti Hotel has very cheap rooms but I have no idea about their food. Located near to the Atse Yohannes Hotel.

I am unsure about the reduced prices for RP holders. If you have the Ethiopian Resident Permit (if you are under employment or volunteering), try it on your hotel booking all over Ethiopia.

Restaurants, Café and Pubs: Surprisingly there are so many restaurants and bars in the city. The locals love to sit outside and eat or drink beer. The following places are famous among foreigners.

Gaze Gallase - a traditional restaurant with live music and dance, and good food. It’s worth trying once if you are in the city for few days. But, you have to ready for the loud music and early visit for the seats.
Karibu – known for pizzas and difficult get the seats at night time.
Yordannes Blue – at the center of downtown (‘Kadhama’) and known for good food and fasting buffet-lunch during the fasting months.
Abra Castle – an old and small castle has been converted as a hotel with rooms to rent. It has a very nice city view because it’s slightly elevated. Nice to sit outside and have coffee/ tea in the evening times.
Yordannes Pizza – near to Abra Castle.
Mar Amusement Park – a restaurant with beautiful gardens. Lot of trees and flowers. And also good food. It’s little outside the city, so you have to hire a taxi/Bajaj.
Hill Top Hotel – it’s on the top of a hill after bypassing the Mar Amusement Park. Very nice view and also food. They also have rooms to rent.
Zebra Café, Dove Café are famous for cakes, pastries and juice.
Dani Burger – well-known for burgers.
Lacassa Bakery – it has good breads and buns.

Foods & Drinks: The main local food is called ‘Injera’, a type of pancake/appam made from grain (Teff). They eat this with curries, salad and meat. Other than Injera, you can find pasta, spaghetti, rice, pizzas, burgers, bread and omelets. In Mekele, you can find verities of non-vegetarian’s food, from egg to fresh meat. No worries to vegetarians, you can find fasting items in the menus. The Orthodox Christians here don’t consume non-vegetables, egg and milk during their fasting months, which they do for 3-4 times a year for 20-60 days each time.

They have good quality coffee called ‘Buna’ (without milk), which is made from their own coffee beans. Milk with coffee called ‘Macchiato’, a kind of espresso. They also drink black tea, called ‘Shay’. Other than the above hot drinks, avocado and mango juice available in most of the cafes. Beer is commonly used by everyone, which is mostly 4% alcohol in Ethiopian brands.

Places to see: If you are an excited tourist, do not expect magnificent sight-seeing at Mekele. However, there are few attractions in the city, and the Tigray region has many historical places which can be easily reach from Mekele.

Entrance Fees: You will be allowed as a local tourist (around 10 birr) if you have resident permit of Ethiopia (they called it as Green Card, because of the color), so always take it with you. Otherwise, you have to pay 10 times if you are on a tourist visa. However, they never accept the RP in the historical churches. All foreigners must pay 100 – 150 birr as an entrance fee for the churches.

Inside Mekele:

Museum of Emperor Yohannes IV – situated opposite to Atse Yohanees Hotel. A former palace converted as a Museum.
Hawelti Monument – a very tall monument built in the memory of the fighters from Tigray regain.
Abra Castle and Hill Top Hotel are known for the city view. If you are going to Hill Top Hotel, stop at Mar Amusement Park for beautiful trees with flowers.

Outside Mekele:

A waterfall from 8km of Mekele.
Wukro, Axum, Lalibela, Debre Damo are some hours drive from Mekele. The last three are historical places of Tigray and famous for ancient architectures
Tour agents operate from Mekele to the northern lowland called Denakil Depression, which is known for sparkling volcanoes.

Caution: Nowadays, theft cases are common in many countries. There are few pickpocket cases in the downtown of Mekele; they target foreigners as well as locals. Be careful with your hand phone, wallet and handbag. And also, some petty thief cases in the independent houses, when there’s no one around. They normally steal cash, electronics & electrical items and passports. So, many houses have electric wiring for walls or a guard to avoid the trouble. Added to these, there are two more to be concerned which are very rare in Mekele. If young boys try to sell something to you, better to avoid them or don’t take out your wallet. The next is the small kids ask money from foreigners, better not to encourage them or one birr is more than enough if you feel like to give.

However, the foreigners are let to enjoy their stay without disturbance and the local people are very nice and friendly.

Some of my Mekele photographs on Instagram: