Travel Post By Indira: Ethiopia

My African Days - by Indira Palasubramaniam

Lake Tana, the Blue Nile

One of the main tourist destinations of Ethiopia, Bahar Dar or Bahir Dar has attracting sites like Lake Tana, Blue Nile River and Blue Nile Waterfall. On the other hand, Bahar Dar is connected to many historic events and also home to ancient monasteries with marvelous wall paintings and illustrated manuscripts and it is the capital of Amhara region. Approximately 578 kilometers from the capital Addis Ababa and has daily flights to and from Addis Ababa and Lalibela, also around three hours drive by road from another historically well known city of the Amhara region, Gondar. The City: I spent two days in Bahar Dar in 2013, and again enough time needed to explore the city in 2015 and 2016. The city has many good hotels and restaurants, an old church known as Giyorgis, a busy city center with so much activities. Once you pass the city center, you will get into the lower downtown area which is locally called as Gabayha/Gabaaya with handicraft market, vegetable market, spice market and many other shops. The city is also has an old University of Bahar Dar with four campuses, traditional music and dance places, a very tall monument in the memory of the dead soldiers, the Little Nile River and a bridge over it on the main road, southern shores of Lake Tana and so on. Lake Tana: The largest lake in Ethiopia. I went for a boat ride on Lake Tana with four more tourists. I never saw a huge and deep lake like that in my life even though I had many lake boatings before. It was so magnificent, and, there were so many water birds including ibis, ducks and pelicans, and, hippos in the water. The hippos were seen pulling their heads inside the water while our boat was passing by them. There are number of islands in the lake. We visited one of them, it has an old monastery and local shops which sells Ethiopian coffee and fried lake fish. The fishermen there use locally made canoes which made out of lakeside reeds. The boatman pointed his hand to one place and told that it is the place where Blue Nile and Nile rivers join together, I had no idea how they make it out as I could see only water everywhere. At a point, we felt that the lake gets bit wilder and we turned back where it is more dangerous to go further. I could not see the shores of the other sides, I could see only water in wide area like sea. Actually, the lake is stretch up to the north of Gondar. One should get on to a hill’s top to see the most part of the lake. If you are hiring a boat for a ride, make sure the boatman has life-jackets inside the boat. Our boatman assured before we got in, but we came to know that he did’t have any, in the middle when the boat went wild. Eventually, the lake became my favorite place and I used to frequent, during my stay in Bahar Dar. You can find a nice view at any of the left side hotels or resorts, or else, on the right side of the lake. On the right, you can find a concrete path alongshore to almost more than a kilometer for a nice walk, which is starting near to the Lake Shore restaurant. On this way, there are small jetties and cafes, and very close to the middle you will get the spectacular view of the sunset. In addition, there are numerous types of waterbirds, which adding a lively environment. A white face fish eagle in the surroundings, a group of black and white kingfishers swoops down into the lake from the lakeside reeds, the dabbling sort necks teals and other pintails feeds on the surface, one type of long neck waterbirds always hiding into the water and peek out in between like snakes. A pair of small birds slowly walk on the shallow water of the banks, by making small ripples. A flock of parade-like white egrets fly across the lake, you can clearly listen their fluttering wings and you may wonder how they learn the parader discipline. The African great white pelicans, roam around every part of the lake, as though the lake belong to them. I used to surprise by the flocks of white herons, small to medium size of black cormorants, and green wings big ducks flew over my head to their roosts just after the sundown. Importantly, the lake and the surroundings are very clean. Since Ethiopia is a land locked country, the lake is attractive to local tourists too. Blue Nile Waterfall: In 2015, we had a half day tour to the Blue Nile Waterfall, by bus from the city. It also known as Tis Issat Waterfall, and I must truly say that I was disappointed. I had an imagination of somewhat a mini Niagara after watching the local TV’s earlier footage. But it was not like what I was imagined, a little water was falling from the wide cliff even though we went in August, during the rainy season. We were told that huge amount of water has been diverted to a newly built dam, which supposed to be the largest dam in Africa. But the local people have told us that the authorities used to divert some more water to the waterfall during the weekends. Anyhow, we almost 40 - 50 minutes trekked up to the waterfall on a rocky way on the hills. The scenery was very pleasant with full of green and valleys. We passed a very old Portuguese bridge and another very long chained bridge over a big valley. On the way back, we had decided to take a short way by passing the Abay River by boat, which was a wrong decision during the rainy season. The path was full of mud and water and we had a difficult time there. Surprisingly, we saw a small Alligator on the riverbank while passing by the boat. Finally the day turned out as a mini adventure for me. Accommodations and Restaurants: There are many good hotels and resorts around the city. Avanthi Resort Hotel (the Blue Nile), Kiruftu Resort and Grand Hotel are located in the shore of the lake with nice lake views. Homland Hotel is also a good hotel and less price than above all, located around 10 minutes drive from the city center. Another choice is NGG Hotel, a low budget hotel around the city center. There also many good restaurants around the city. Desset Lodge is a garden restaurant with colorful flowers and so many birds, one of my favorite place for a meal or drinks to watch the birds and the lake before dark.
Some of my Bahir Dar photographs on Instagram:

Lake Ialand's Jetty	Local Canoe	Nile	Old Bridge	Pelicans	Lake Tana

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My African Days - by Indira Palasubramaniam

City view from Hawelti, Mekele

This article may help you to know Mekele in brief, which describes about the city, people, topography, climate and wildlife. Additionally, you also can find some details about transportation, accommodations, restaurants, foods & drinks, places to visit and cautions, if you are planning for a visit.

The city: The Mekele city has some uniqueness compared to other cities in Ethiopia such as cleanness, less populace, pleasant weather, easy access to internet and transport. Importantly, the people are very friendly. Mekele or Mekelle pronounced as ‘Makale’. It’s the capital of Tigray region, which is one of the nine ethnic regions of Ethiopia. Tigray region is located in the northern part of Ethiopia. Mekele is a small city by area, in the region of 28km. New buildings, infrastructure and population are growing rapidly from last five years, but not yet to call as crowded city. There are many educational institutions around the city; the Mekele University gets most of the students even from other parts of Ethiopia. Thus, you can find the statement “Welcome to the Knowledge City” on the city name board at the entrance of Mekele.

The people: The majority of residents are Orthodox Christians followed by Muslims. Tigray region is bordered by Eritrea in the north and the Mekele citizens have more in common with Eritreans, in terms of language (Tigrinya) and customs. A number of people speak English as well. They are very much interested in Music and Dance. Youngsters opt for modern and western dresses than their traditional dresses, which they wear occasionally. Men and Women are equal in the society. There are a number of foreigners residing in the city and working in the private and public sectors, mainly in educational institutions and NGOs; most of them from India, Philippine, Europe and other western countries.

Topography and Climate: Ethiopia is a mountainous country and Mekele is elevated by almost 2,200m above sea level. Thus, it has a moderate climate throughout the year; the temperature can go up between 22◦C and 25◦C during noontimes and often drops to less than 14◦C at nighttimes. The city is surrounded by medium height mountains and the land is not flat. Heavy winds blow in the afternoons, bringing up dust during the dry season. The dry season starts from October and wet season starts from June, but you can find some rain in March as well. Hailstones usually mixed up with the rains. The period of June to September known as the best weather in Mekele, with rains and mild winter. You can find a little more details about the climate on my blog “Cool parts of northern east Africa”.

Wildlife: Mekele is not for wildlife watch, except the midnight hyenas. There is no zoo or open park to watch the wildlife. You may get the chance to see some animals and many birds if you are in a long stay in the city. So far, I have seen around 30 different varieties of lovely birds in my compound in the last 6 months, which I have never seen before. The hyenas enter into the city from nearby jungles to catch farm animals at midnights. Local farmers grow cows, goats, sheep, donkeys, horses, camels, chicken and dogs (dogs to protect their animals from hyenas) in their small house with little land. If you want to see the real wildlife of Ethiopia, you must visit the Simien Mountain, Bale Mountain, Gondar, Bahar Dar, Gambela and Awash National Park.

Transportation: Ethiopian Airlines flies four times a day from Addis Ababa to Mekele, costing around 1,400 Birr for one way (780Km). There are buses between Addis Ababa and Mekele, which may cost 400 Birr. Some buses are very fast, which will reach in one day. And some buses take two days, which includes a night stop with accommodation. Many people prefer the two day bus to have comfortable journey and alternatively enjoy the view of the countryside.

Inside Mekele, shared three wheels (Bajaj) and mini vans are commonly used, in the cost of 1.40 or 2.40 Birr. Bajaj and taxies are available for hiring, but it’s better to know the fare in advance, because many drivers charge more fees from foreigners when you want to hire (or contract, which they call). Bajaj may cost 20 – 30 Birr for single hiring. Horse-carts, donkeys and camels are widely used in goods transportation within the city.

Accommodations: There are three hotels in the city with some standards.

First is Axum Hotel, which is comparable to four stars and also known for good food.
The second is Milano Hotel, a good and old hotel. Many prefer this next to Axum Hotel.
The third is Atse Yohannes Hotel, which is known for good food and city view.
Other than the above three, the Seti Hotel has very cheap rooms but I have no idea about their food. Located near to the Atse Yohannes Hotel.

I am unsure about the reduced prices for RP holders. If you have the Ethiopian Resident Permit (if you are under employment or volunteering), try it on your hotel booking all over Ethiopia.

Restaurants, Café and Pubs: Surprisingly there are so many restaurants and bars in the city. The locals love to sit outside and eat or drink beer. The following places are famous among foreigners.

Gaze Gallase - a traditional restaurant with live music and dance, and good food. It’s worth trying once if you are in the city for few days. But, you have to ready for the loud music and early visit for the seats.
Karibu – known for pizzas and difficult get the seats at night time.
Yordannes Blue – at the center of downtown (‘Kadhama’) and known for good food and fasting buffet-lunch during the fasting months.
Abra Castle – an old and small castle has been converted as a hotel with rooms to rent. It has a very nice city view because it’s slightly elevated. Nice to sit outside and have coffee/ tea in the evening times.
Yordannes Pizza – near to Abra Castle.
Mar Amusement Park – a restaurant with beautiful gardens. Lot of trees and flowers. And also good food. It’s little outside the city, so you have to hire a taxi/Bajaj.
Hill Top Hotel – it’s on the top of a hill after bypassing the Mar Amusement Park. Very nice view and also food. They also have rooms to rent.
Zebra Café, Dove Café are famous for cakes, pastries and juice.
Dani Burger – well-known for burgers.
Lacassa Bakery – it has good breads and buns.

Foods & Drinks: The main local food is called ‘Injera’, a type of pancake/appam made from grain (Teff). They eat this with curries, salad and meat. Other than Injera, you can find pasta, spaghetti, rice, pizzas, burgers, bread and omelets. In Mekele, you can find verities of non-vegetarian’s food, from egg to fresh meat. No worries to vegetarians, you can find fasting items in the menus. The Orthodox Christians here don’t consume non-vegetables, egg and milk during their fasting months, which they do for 3-4 times a year for 20-60 days each time.

They have good quality coffee called ‘Buna’ (without milk), which is made from their own coffee beans. Milk with coffee called ‘Macchiato’, a kind of espresso. They also drink black tea, called ‘Shay’. Other than the above hot drinks, avocado and mango juice available in most of the cafes. Beer is commonly used by everyone, which is mostly 4% alcohol in Ethiopian brands.

Places to see: If you are an excited tourist, do not expect magnificent sight-seeing at Mekele. However, there are few attractions in the city, and the Tigray region has many historical places which can be easily reach from Mekele.

Entrance Fees: You will be allowed as a local tourist (around 10 birr) if you have resident permit of Ethiopia (they called it as Green Card, because of the color), so always take it with you. Otherwise, you have to pay 10 times if you are on a tourist visa. However, they never accept the RP in the historical churches. All foreigners must pay 100 – 150 birr as an entrance fee for the churches.

Inside Mekele:

Museum of Emperor Yohannes IV – situated opposite to Atse Yohanees Hotel. A former palace converted as a Museum.
Hawelti Monument – a very tall monument built in the memory of the fighters from Tigray regain.
Abra Castle and Hill Top Hotel are known for the city view. If you are going to Hill Top Hotel, stop at Mar Amusement Park for beautiful trees with flowers.

Outside Mekele:

A waterfall from 8km of Mekele.
Wukro, Axum, Lalibela, Debre Damo are some hours drive from Mekele. The last three are historical places of Tigray and famous for ancient architectures
Tour agents operate from Mekele to the northern lowland called Denakil Depression, which is known for sparkling volcanoes.

Caution: Nowadays, theft cases are common in many countries. There are few pickpocket cases in the downtown of Mekele; they target foreigners as well as locals. Be careful with your hand phone, wallet and handbag. And also, some petty thief cases in the independent houses, when there’s no one around. They normally steal cash, electronics & electrical items and passports. So, many houses have electric wiring for walls or a guard to avoid the trouble. Added to these, there are two more to be concerned which are very rare in Mekele. If young boys try to sell something to you, better to avoid them or don’t take out your wallet. The next is the small kids ask money from foreigners, better not to encourage them or one birr is more than enough if you feel like to give.

However, the foreigners are let to enjoy their stay without disturbance and the local people are very nice and friendly.

Some of my Mekele photographs on Instagram: